Sunday, May 29, 2011

Portela de Tamel / Day 2

What a good decision to keep my earplugs handy... I couldn't make out who it was, but somebody snored pretty loud last night.

There is a general bustling around the room as everybody gets ready in the morning. No alarm clock needed! I hop down from the top bunk, get dressed and stuff my sleeping bag back into my pack. Sunscreen - check, magnesium tablet - check, breakfast to go - check.

I leave the albergue at quarter to 7, hoping this day will present itself with a more pleasant trail. And indeed the way leads me through fields and wine yards. The sunrise and morning mist make for beautiful pictures. The silence is blissful and I enjoy walking a lot more than yesterday. The blister on my left foot stings with every step, but I try to ignore it and walk normally.
I feel confident to simply follow the yellow arrows and can't be bothered too much to double check my guide book. (Compared to the one I used on the French way I find this one really confusing.) Every now and then I spot a blue arrow pointing in the opposite direction. I wonder where they lead to... (later I learn they point towards Fatima)

At a bar in Pedra Furada I have a café con leche and meet Sandra and Thomas who are just about to leave. The woman behind the counter takes a picture of us for her photo album. She asks everyone who stops at her bar. I think it's a great idea.

After the coffee break I walk further and reach Barcelos shortly after 11AM. The thermometer shows +30°C. I take a picture of me and the famous cock of Barcelos and buy some postcards. The legend of the cock sounds very familiar - there is a similar legend on the French way, in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. As it says in my guide book, until today it is not clear who copied from whom.

At a café in front of the church I meet Sandra, Thomas (again about to leave) and the two Belgians Dis and Herman. I have a refreshing coca cola in the shade. From Barcelos to Tamel it's only another 9,3 km. Manageable in about 2 hours. So I relax for a little bit and eat my banana before I continue walking again.

The midday heat is merciless. I finally reach a sign indicating the albergue of Portela de Tamel in about 2,5 km. Soon I find out that this is going to be a hard way. The road gets steeper and steeper until I finally reach the top. The albergue looks nice and clean. I register and get a bed in Sandra's and Thomas' room.

I also meet Uschi. She seems to be a very friendly and open person. She smiles and greats me warmly when I enter the room. It's time to check my blister.
The blister pad I put on this morning practically melted into my sock and I discover another blister on the outside of my left foot. Great, just great...
Later, Melanie and Kai, a couple from Düsseldorf join us. Melanie, too, has blisters and the weight of her backpack gets to her.

Sandra, Thomas, Uschi and I have dinner at the only bar/cafe/restaurant in the village. We all have a pizza, it seems it's the only thing they serve there. Not very Spanish but whatever...

Albergue in Tamel
We talk about the difference between a long-distance trail and the Camino. It is Uschi's first Camino, but she has done a lot of long-distance walks already. Sandra, Thomas and I are on our second Camino and are certain of the magic that only a Camino has. We agree to talk about this again in Santiago.

Suddenly I realize that it's already 20:50 and the albergue closes at 21:00!! We practically run up the hill and make it just in time. When we get back to our room we realize that the lights aren't working anymore. How fun! Getting ready for bed in the near dark.
At 21:30 I lie in bed when suddenly the church bells chime. Now I know what the hospitalero meant when he said "The church stops at ten"... Again I prepare my earplugs before I put on my audio book.


Distance covered today: 24,9 km

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