Ponte de Lima / Day 3

It was a quiet night – nobody snored! Later we found out we chose the right roommates. In the other room people hardly slept because two men were snoring horribly loud.

I tape my blisters with compeed and bandage around it to make sure this time they stick. Unfortunately the battery of my camera is dead… somehow the charger didn’t work last night. Frick! Ok so there won’t be any photos from this stage. If something really is worthwhile photographing I’ll just use my mobile.

The way leads downhill along a road with hardly any traffic before making a right turn onto a small path along wine yards. Walking downhill doesn’t feel too good because my blisters hurt. Uschi passes me with a happy grin and a wave. She uses trekking poles. As I walk through the woods I start to limp. I wish I had brought mine along too. … I look around to check if there is anyone walking within hearing distance. Then I ask out loud: “Dear universe, I need a stick. Could you please send me the perfect walking stick?” No 50m later, just around the next bend, I see a stick lying along the path. I pick it up and know immediately that this will be my stick. It lies well in my hand, has the perfect length and is solid enough for me to lean on it. Happy to have found the perfect pilgrim’s staff, I continue walking. Until now I haven’t found a companion as great as Kirsten so I mostly walk alone.

Again the way leads me through small villages and vine yards before I reach a small but pretty church. I decide to sit on the steps in front of it and enjoy the shade. I take of my boots. It doesn’t look as if I got any new blisters. So far, so good. Still my left foot hurts a lot. After a while Melanie and Kai approach. When we realize that we’ve covered half of today’s distance already we decide to have a coke together in the bar around the corner and rest a little longer. It’s CRAZY how much coke I drink on the Camino… but it is the best sugar boost.

After half an hour or so we walk on together. Again the heat is merciless. Who would’ve thought it would be +33°C in the beginning of May?! The route leads us downhill on a dirt road and I am thankful for my stick. Finally, the road evens out and I find a good rhythm. At a small chapel along the way the two of them stop. I put on some more sunscreen, eat an apple and walk on, because I don’t want to lose my rhythm.

I arrive in Ponte de Lima a little while later and already make out the enormous bridge from a far. The town looks very pretty. I cross the river Lima and approach the bar next to the albergue. All my fellow pilgrims are there already. Sandra and Thomas, Uschi and a couple of Belgians. I join them happily.

The albergue opens at 5 PM. It’s a very nice albergue with single beds and a living room with a computer for free internet. That’s good because I have to try and charge my camera via USB – it works! I log onto facebook for a couple of minutes to post an update… I can’t be bothered to read through all the other posts. I don’t care at all what’s happening back home.

In the evening another Thomas (also from Switzerland) joins us for dinner. Again we have the menu del peregrino. (Uschi doesn’t because she’s vegetarian and orders a salad. Being a vegetarian on the Camino will be challenging.)

When we walk back to the albergue it’s dark already and the small church is beautifully lit. I run upstairs to get my camera and take a few pictures before they close the albergue. Then I get ready for bed. I have a feeling I’ll be needing the earplugs again tonight...

Distance covered: 24,3 km

Portela de Tamel / Day 2

What a good decision to keep my earplugs handy... I couldn't make out who it was, but somebody snored pretty loud last night.

There is a general bustling around the room as everybody gets ready in the morning. No alarm clock needed! I hop down from the top bunk, get dressed and stuff my sleeping bag back into my pack. Sunscreen - check, magnesium tablet - check, breakfast to go - check.

I leave the albergue at quarter to 7, hoping this day will present itself with a more pleasant trail. And indeed the way leads me through fields and wine yards. The sunrise and morning mist make for beautiful pictures. The silence is blissful and I enjoy walking a lot more than yesterday. The blister on my left foot stings with every step, but I try to ignore it and walk normally.

I feel confident to simply follow the yellow arrows and can't be bothered too much to double check my guide book. (Compared to the one I used on the French way I find this one really confusing.) Every now and then I spot a blue arrow pointing in the opposite direction. I wonder where they lead to... (later I learn they point towards Fatima)

At a bar in Pedra Furada I have a café con leche and meet Sandra and Thomas who are just about to leave. The woman behind the counter takes a picture of us for her photo album. She asks everyone who stops at her bar. I think it's a great idea.

After the coffee break I walk further and reach Barcelos shortly after 11AM. The thermometer shows +30°C. I take a picture of me and the famous cock of Barcelos and buy some postcards. The legend of the cock sounds very familiar - there is a similar legend on the French way, in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. As it says in my guide book, until today it is not clear who copied from whom.

At a café in front of the church I meet Sandra, Thomas (again about to leave) and the two Belgians Dis and Herman. I have a refreshing coca cola in the shade. From Barcelos to Tamel it's only another 9,3 km. Manageable in about 2 hours. So I relax for a little bit and eat my banana before I continue walking again.

The midday heat is merciless. I finally reach a sign indicating the albergue of Portela de Tamel in about 2,5 km. Soon I find out that this is going to be a hard way. The road gets steeper and steeper until I finally reach the top. The albergue looks nice and clean. I register and get a bed in Sandra's and Thomas' room.

I also meet Uschi. She seems to be a very friendly and open person. She smiles and greats me warmly when I enter the room. It's time to check my blister.
The blister pad I put on this morning practically melted into my sock and I discover another blister on the outside of my left foot. Great, just great...
Later, Melanie and Kai, a couple from Düsseldorf join us. Melanie, too, has blisters and the weight of her backpack gets to her.

Sandra, Thomas, Uschi and I have dinner at the only bar/cafe/restaurant in the village. We all have a pizza, it seems it's the only thing they serve there. Not very Spanish but whatever...

Albergue in Tamel

We talk about the difference between a long-distance trail and the Camino. It is Uschi's first Camino, but she has done a lot of long-distance walks already. Sandra, Thomas and I are on our second Camino and are certain of the magic that only a Camino has. We agree to talk about this again in Santiago.

Suddenly I realize that it's already 20:50 and the albergue closes at 21:00!! We practically run up the hill and make it just in time. When we get back to our room we realize that the lights aren't working anymore. How fun! Getting ready for bed in the near dark.

At 21:30 I lie in bed when suddenly the church bells chime. Now I know what the hospitalero meant when he said "The church stops at ten"... Again I prepare my earplugs before I put on my audio book.


Distance covered today: 24,9 km

Rates / Day 1

church in Maia

The alarm goes off at 6:00 AM... not a very pleasant time to get up in my opinion. I get up almost immediately anyway. I fill up my camelbak and get dressed. Breakfast today consists of 2 power bars I brought from home. I put on my boots and pack and leave just before 7 to walk back to the metro stop.

I decided to cheat a little because I don't want to walk all the way through town and get the metro to Forum Maia. From there I find my way towards the first yellow arrow easily. It is a few minutes to 8 when I arrive at a small church with blue tiles which marks my personal starting point of the way.

Following the yellow arrows I soon find myself walking along the roadside through the industrial district of Maia. The cars and trucks rush past me without even pretending to slow down. This makes walking very uncomfortable. I walk as far left as possible, causing my left foot to slip off the road from time to time. And as if that wasn't scary enough, there are walls on either side of the street to make it almost impossible to jump aside when trucks pass by. I meet no other pilgrims on the way... I can't possibly be the only one!

After what feels like an eternity I reach Vilarinho around 11 AM. According to my hiking guide this marks the end of the first stage. But as there is no official albergue I decide to walk to Rates. But first I need food!

I find a small bar where I have a toast. After half an hour I decide to resume hiking. Just then I see a couple of pilgrims sitting down in the park oposit the bar. Eager to meet someone I walk over and greet them friendly, realising they're German speaking. They introduce themselves as Wolfgang and Gisela, a retired couple from Germany. Together we sit in the shade of the trees and enjoy the break. They too are headed for Rates and we decide to walk on together.

The route continues to follow the country road for a few more km before it finally changes its direction and leads us through small villages and even a small forrest. Just a couple of km before our first albergue we take a short detour to a small church and pass by a true oasis.

We pick fresh oranges from the tree - it's not stealing, is it? I decide that it's not and enjoy my orange and safe one for later.

After that it's only a short walk until we reach our destination. The albergue in Rates is simple but clean. We sign the guestbook and pick our beds in the same room. 

I discover a huge blister on my left foot just below my big toe. Darn! I walked 400 blisterfree km in these boots - and now I get one?! A refreshing shower will make me feel much better.

Afterwards we go to the small market to collect our stamp (a very beautiful one by the way, in black and red). We also buy supplies for the next day.

Later we have dinner with our roommates: Thomas & Sandra, who met on the Camino Francés last year, another Thomas and two Italians. We all have the menue del peregrino - as it turned out this night it was spare ribbs and rice. Yummy! The apple for dessert was a bit disappointing though.

After a fun evening we walk back to the albergue together, we don't want to get locked out. It closes at 10:00 PM sharp.

Despite the horrendous walk through the industrial district and the blister on my left foot, I am quite happy with this first day. My pack isn't too heavy and I'm in better shape than I thought. Also, the first impressions I got of my fellow pilgrims are good. Hopefully this will be a quiet night. Just in case I keep my earplugs within reach.

albergue in Rates

Distance covered: ~25 km

Porto

I arrive in Porto in the early afternoon.
This gives me enough time to take a stroll around town and most importantly - get my Credencial from the cathedral!

But first things first. I need to find a store to buy some things I forgot at home and water for the next day. I find a shop and run my errands before I start my sightseeing stroll. Now that I am here, I might as well cover the most important sights this afternoon.
Porto is a beautiful city, with very nice buildings. Sadly, many of them are run down and need renovation desperately. I think the prettiest part of town is the area by the river and around the cathedral.

I go to the cathedral and get my Credencial  - and my first stamp of the way. Getting excited!

After that, I walk aimlessly around for a little while, before I have dinner at the Majestic, a very stylish old-fashioned cafe just around the corner of my residence for the night.

Then I enjoy what will be the last shower in a private bathroom for at least 2 weeks and call it an early night. Tomorrow will be my first walking day and I want to get out of town by metro early to avoid the midday heat. I want to make it all the way to Rates, which should be a manageable distance if I use the metro.


Bom Caminho!

Coming soon!

From the 10th to the 20th of May I was walking the Caminho Portugues, a.k.a the Portuguese Way of St. James. Luckily, I was faster than I'd expected to be and had some time to get a bus to Fisterra and enjoy two great days there.

Now that I'm back home and back to work, I'm trying to maintain the positive energy I got from the Camino and preserve my so-called "pilgrim bubble" a little while longer. Throughout the next days I'll take some time to sort out my over 600 photos and rather scarcely written notes to post my itinerary.

Stay tuned for more! ==>  ==>  ==>

Introduction

This blog will be about my hiking adventures. Whether you are a passionate hiker or just love to read about peoples trips, I really hope you enjoy my blog. Feel free to share your own experience.

I became passionate about hiking long distances two years ago. I started walking the Camino francés (also known as the French Way) in summer of 2009, beginning my journey in Saint Jean Pied de Port, France. I chose the Camino very last minute, about 3 weeks before my vacation. I decided on it for various personal reasons. I only had 2 and a half weeks off work so I decided that Burgos would be my destination for the time being. I walked the distance of about 290km (180 miles) in 13 days.

Along the way I met really great people. Everyone in their own way was special to me and made this trip one of the best vacations of my life. My favorite fellow pilgrim even became one of my closest friends. She was a great companion every step of the way.

When I reached Burgos, I knew that I had to come back and finish my way to Santiago. It was a very strange feeling to say goodbye to all my friends, knowing they would be walking on, finishing the pilgrimage without me. Even if that was almost two years ago, for me the Camino francés still feels unfinished.

Some day, hopefully next summer, I'll take more time off and walk the entire distance between Burgos and Finisterre.

This time, I'll be waking the Caminho português from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. I chose that route because again I only have the limited number of 14 walking days. The distance from Porto to Santiago is about 240km, which can be done easily in 12 days. This way I'll have 2 extra days to cover any eventualities. If I'm faster, I'll maybe even make it to Cape Finisterre. But we'll see about that.